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The visible side is the back

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Manual:

Dimensions: approx.9.5 cm long and 5 cm wide

Needle size: 4mm (and 3.5mm) (either double-pointed needles or circular needles with a long needle rope → Magic Loop)

Yarn: I used a merino blend (Merino Mix from Schoeller and Stahl), just what I had left on wool residues (recommended needle size 4 – 5 mm)

Yarn consumption:  less than 50 g

Construction: First the sole is knitted in back and forth rows. Then stitches are picked up from the edge of the sole and work continues in rounds. The shoe is shaped by taking off and finally finished off with a ribbed cuff. The whole construction is seamless.

Abbreviations:

  • M = stitch (s)
  • R = row
  • right = knit stitch (s)
  • Increase m1 = (make one) from the cross thread on the right
  • Knit 2 sts = knit two stitches together
  • purl = knit stitches

Here we go:

Sole: Cast on 6 sts with 4mm needle. It is worked in back and forth rows.

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  • R 1: all right (back row)
  • R 2: 1 r , m1, 4 r , m1, 1 r (total 8 sts) (from right side)
  • R 3: all right
  • R 4: 1 r , m1, 6 r , m1, 1 r (total 10 sts )
  • R 5 to R 33: all sts (the work has a total of 17 ridges and is about 8 cm long)
  • R 34: K 1, K 2, K 4, K 2, K 1 (total 8 st )
  • R 35: all right
  • R 36: K 1, K 2, K 2, K 2, K 1 (total 6 st )
  • R 37: all right

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The work now measures approximately 9 cm by 4.5 cm .

Foot part and cuffs: From now on you will work in rounds.

Around (most of the small knubbeln) from the back side from the edge of the sole total of 40 M receive: from the lateral edges of each of 18 M and from the stop edge 4 M. With the existing 6 M of the sole there are therefore now total 46 M . (Note: If there are a few stitches too much or too little, this is not a problem. The number of stitches can be corrected later in the cuffs.) This back of the sole later forms the outer visible sole of the shoe. The knitted M can now be closed in a round. (Mark the beginning of the round for this. At the beginning of the round the “heel” will be later.)

The later sole
The later sole
  • Round 1: all left
  • Round 2 to round 6: all right
  • Round 7: 26 right, insert marker to mark the center of the toe (if the number of stitches differs, the position of the marker must also be adjusted here), remaining sts on round
  • Round 8:  K to 6 sts before marker, add 2 sts three times, fold marker, add 2 sts three times, remaining sts ( 40 sts )
  • Round 9: all right
  • Round 10: K to 6 sts before marker, add 2 sts three times, fold marker, add 2 sts three times, remaining sts ( 34 sts )
  • Round 11: all right
  • Round 12: K to 6 sts before marker, add 2 sts three times, fold marker, add 2 sts three times, remaining sts ( 28 sts )
  • Round 13: all right (Note: This is a preparatory round for the following cuff. You may need to increase or decrease the number of stitches to a number divisible by 4 for a 2-2 ribbed cuff, or if desired to a straight one Number with a 1-1 rib cuff.)

Now work approx. 7 cm in the preferred rib pattern (for me 2 right, 2 left) in the round. If you want to have the cuff a little firmer, you can switch to a smaller needle size (e.g. 3.5). But since I knit more tightly and felt the cuff at 3.5 too tight, I stayed with a 4-needle. Finally, bind off loosely or elastically and sew the threads. Fold cuffs down. Knit the second shoe in the same way. Finished!

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